ONCE in a while we crave fancy, intricate food: braised shark’s fin soup with crab meat and fried scallops, deep-fried taro stuffed with shrimps, scallops ceviche with baby octopus, king prawn rolls with champagne sauce, etcetera, etcetera, etcetera. So we go to the Summer Palace of the Edsa Shangri-La, Tin Hau of the Mandarin Oriental, Li Li of Hyatt, Jasmine of Renaissance, or Choi Garden in
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